SECULAR MUSLIM GOES TO MECCA—MUSLIM FACES: PART III

Links to Part I and II of this series.

By Humaira

In my two days travel to reach Medina—the first stop for my pilgrimage—I was surprised to discover numerous families making the long journey from Fremont, South Africa and Pakistan to do Umrah. My children are complaining about our upcoming summer rafting trip in the Grand Canyon—I wonder what they would say about ten-days of praying, visiting mosques and holy sights halfway around the world.

Family of four— travelled from South Africa for Umrah

In talking to Sahar, an affable fourteen-year-old Afghan American girl from Fremont, I found out it has been her dream to do the pilgrimage. I asked, why not Disneyland or Hawaii? She shrugged and said she doesn’t know.  Sahar was traveling with her parents, siblings, cousins, aunts and uncles to do Umrah.

Siblings from South Africa—elder brother and sister, in the foreground, work at their mother's hardware store, the younger brother goes to school.

Seeing that it’s not yet Spring break, I asked, “how about school?” She noted that she completed her schoolwork in the fifteen-hour flight to Dubai.

“And your friends,” I asked, “do they think it’s weird you’re going on a pilgrimage for Spring break?” She said her friends are very happy for her.

My co-pilgrims and me at the battle of Uhud sight (I'm on the furthers right with white headscarf)

Unless you have a relative or local contact in Saudi Arabia, all pilgrims must travel with organized tours with similar itineraries for Umrah—first stop in Medina and then off to Mecca.

Medina is the capital city of the Medina Region in Saudi Arabia with a population of 1.2 million. At first glance the city is quite unremarkable—with monochromatic khaki colored crumbling buildings, unruly traffic and garbage-strewn sidewalks. What brings millions of visitors to this city are the various holy sights, mosques and historical locations where Prophet Muhammad, Peace Be Upon Him (PBUH) fought for survival and advancement of Islam.

A glimpse in the back streets of Medina

The crown jewel of the city and the main attraction for pilgrims is the Al-Masjid-Nabaw, also known as The Prophet’s Mosque.  Prophet Muhammad, PBUH, is buried in this sight, making it the second holiest place in Islam. The spectacular mosque glows like a flawless diamond as light emanates from genuine gold light fixture perched high on ornate, tiled towers. This breathtaking sight countered my vision, prior to this visit, of a gloomy edifice where women are draped in black hijab reciting the Quran solemnly and praying for forgiveness.

My first glimpse of the Mosque

What I found is a place of joy, where children are playing chase, families are gathered around a picnic between prayers and around a million Muslims gather for Friday prayer.

Women at Friday prayer.

Through these photos I hope you will get a sense of the beautiful energy surrounding this holy sight and a glimpse into the lives of authentic Muslims.

Pakistani pilgrims picnicing with the mosque as a backdrop

Holding hands and spinning is universal game for girls

SECULAR MUSLIM GOES TO MECCA: KAABA ENLIGHTENMENT - PART IV

YOU MAY CONSIDER READING THE PRECEDING PART I, II AND III OF THIS BLOG SERIES. 

By Humaira

There is no place on Earth as cherished, as holy, to as many people as the Kaaba, home of God, located in the Saudi Arabian city of Mecca. During Hajj, the Mecca’s population almost doubles to 6 million.

I arrived in Mecca four days ago to perform Umrah. While preparing for my pilgrimage I did not have a specific spiritual agenda or expectation, but I was excited about seeing the Kaaba. I grew up seeing pictures of this holy site on peoples’ walls, coffee tables and even computer screens. I always wondered how it would feel to stand in front of it, touch it and circle it like millions of Muslims do every year.

Men and women drape themselves on the Kaaba and pray

After arriving in Mecca and checking into our hotel we wasted no time to make our way to Kaaba, which is located directly across from our hotel.  I was advised to close my eyes and I was led by experienced pilgrims through the hallways of Masjid Al Haram, the mosque surrounding Kaaba. My heart beat fast and my legs grew weak from excitement. Tradition says one’s first sight of Kaaba is the most potent time for getting wishes fulfilled. I wracked my brain thinking of my worthiest wish as the Kaaba grew closer and the pressure mounted for when I could open my eyes and see the holy Kaaba for the first time.

Photo taken right after the first sighting of the Kaaba

After many twists, turns and stumbles along the rough walkway we stopped and I finally got to open my eyes. There was the Kaaba of my dreams, right in front of me, but much smaller than I had imagined. A wave of disappointment shook me as I stared, feeling no spiritual connection nor any stirring of happiness in my heart. The other women in my group were hugging and wailing— I stood alone, feeling like an underwhelmed child on Christmas day.

I questioned my faith, my spirituality and my capacity to wonder. After reflecting, I blamed my lack of connection to the crowds, to seven hours of travel to Mecca and perhaps … to my own unwarranted expectations.

The next day I decided to go back, by myself to avoid the pressure of others’ hopes for me and to experience the Kaaba my own way—in silence. After pushing through the crowds and losing my way, I accidently ended up on the uppermost platform overlooking the Kaaba. I looked down at the thousands of people circling the Kaaba in a chaotically hypnotic rhythm. I stood there quietly—not reading the Quran as suggested, nor praying for riches or eternal good health—instead my mind emptied of all thought and tears streamed down my cheeks. Just like that, I felt an overwhelming energy rising from below—as thousands of hopeful pilgrims prayed, chanted and circled the Kaaba. My unstoppable tears flowed. A lovely young lady standing next to me saved my dress sleeve and handed me sheet after sheet of tissues to dry my tears.

I haven’t felt the same connection again, but I’ve grown to appreciate why the Kaaba is the most well known spiritual destination in the history of mankind.

Kaaba under construction

The Kaaba pre-dates Islam—at one point it held 360 idols, allegedly representing the days of the year.  Muslims believe there are two Kaabas—one on earth and the other directly above it in heaven. No matter where they are around the world, Muslims turn to face Kaaba five times a day for prayer.

Much to my surprise, I learned the black cover that shrouds the Kaaba is a thick silk fabric called kiswa—I always thought the cover was velvet. One thousand four hundred and seventy seven pounds of silk is processed to to strengthen it for the wear and tear it faces when pilgrims touch, rub and even drape themselves against the Kaaba. Thirty three pounds of gold thread are used by master craftsmen to stitch Suras of the Quran into the kiswa. The cover of the Kaaba is changed once a year on the 10th day of Hajj. The color of kiswa changed over the years, but since 1207 black has been permanently adopted.

Currently the mosque Masjid Al Haram, surrounding the Kaaba, is undergoing a multi-billion dollar expansion, which will allow over two million pilgrims to visit the Kaaba during Hajj. Until then, pilgrims fight through a maze of construction to reach the Kaaba.

In my next post I’ll write about the Umrah rituals I performed to make my pilgrimage official.

SECULAR MUSLIM GOES TO MECCA AND RETURNS WORLDLY: PART V

By Humaira

Last week I returned home after spending three weeks in places women normally don’t choose to go for fun—Saudi Arabia and Afghanistan.  Yup, I made a quick jaunt to Kabul after my pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina. Read about my trip to Afghanistan in my next post.  Here’s the concluding post on my pilgrimage.

In the haze of jet lag from flying halfway around the world and the confusion of sorting out my children’s carpools after my return I hope I can clearly convey my experiences especially since I’m still making sense of my pilgrimage juxtaposed against my current life.

In the previous series of posts (Part I, II, III, IV) I wrote about why I made the unlikely decision to do Umrah, a pilgrimage performed by Muslims, and how I prepared for the trip.

After arriving at Kaaba, Islam’s holiest site, some of my co-pilgrims and I performed specific Umrah rituals symbolic of the lives of Prophet Ibrahim and his wife, Hajar. The Umrah (in Arabic Umrah means populated place) acts we performed, outlined below, are believed to erase a pilgrim’s sins and it brings solidarity among Muslims around the world.

I'm in Ihram, ready to start my first Umrah

Entering the state of Irham: Prior to wearing my new Irham, the simple white outfit required for the pilgrimage, I was instructed to clip my nails, take a shower and make the intent to do Umrah. Perfumes, makeup or extravagant clothes are discouraged. The simple white clothes break down any wealth or status barrier and unite the pilgrims in their stated intent to perform Umrah.

Men in Irham doing tawaf

Tawaf of the Kaaba: Tawaf is the act of circling of the Kaaba seven times counter clockwise while reciting specific verses of the Quran. Like all faith based rituals, you get out of tawaf what you put into it. Some people around me walked trance-like and others cried. And then there were people like me, clinging to co-pilgrims in fear—fear or being lost, trampled or even worse, losing a headscarf. Tawaf can be done at anytime, but it counts towards Umrah only if you do it in conjunction of all these rituals. Once I became more comfortable with my surroundings and I found the best route into Mosque Al Haram and Kaaba, I performed tawaf every day. I found it most peaceful and spiritual when I walked without my co-travelers who always had helpful commentary and suggestions.

Video I took of of Pilgrims doing Tawaf 

Sa'yee between the hills of Safa and Marwa: Sa'yee consists of walking rapidly walking back and forth between the hills of Safa and Marwa, now small rock formations in the Mosque of Haram, located right next to the Kaaba.

Sa’yee is the re-enactment of Hajar's frantic search for water after Prophet Ibrahim, her husband, was commanded by God to leave her and their infant son Ismael in the desert between Safa and Marwa hills. Once they ran out of water from her basic provision, with infant Ismael’s life in her hands, Hajar went in search of water. She first climbed Safa, to look over the surrounding area—unsuccessful, she then ran up Marwa, to look in the other direction for help.

Marwa hill - image from Masjid Al Haram Blog

Hajar travelled back and forth between the two hills seven times in the scorching Saudi heat before returning to her son, Ismael, only to find a water well revealed where baby Ismael’s heel had been striking the ground as he screamed with thirst. Some Muslims believe Angel Jibreel hit the ground with his wing to reveal this miraculous spring, known as Zamzam. The well saved Hajar and Ismael’s life. It’s said that the well was God’s reward for her patience.

Muslim’s recite Zamzam’s miracle to their children and pilgrims drink the well’s holy water, which is believed to have healing powers. Originally, the water from the well was drawn via ropes and buckets while pilgrims drank at it’s source. Now it’s protected from the public and a high-tech hydraulic systems draws the water from the ground. Zamzam water is available throughout the Masjid al-Haram via water fountains.

Walkway between Safa and Marwa - image from Masjid Al Haram Blog

Unlike Hajar’s harrowing experience, we walked on a covered and well ventilated marbled path that connects the Safa and Marwa hills. I personally found this step of the ritual tranquil—I walked down the wide path without being pushed, shoved or kicked and I thought of Hajar’s fight to save her child as mothers do every day.

Taqsir, Exiting Irham: Taqsir is the act of cutting one’s hair, and the last step of the Umrah rituals. It’s meant to demonstrate sincerity and humility to Allah without caring for one's physical appearance.

Some men shave their heads and others cut a one inch lock. Women are encouraged to only cut a snippet of their hair and forgo the drastic act of shaving. I felt a little guilty, as if I was cheating the system, since taqsir didn’t seem like a big sacrifice for me—cutting two inches off my long hair didn’t make much of a difference in my appearance. However, I was happy to bring closure to our important journey.

One can do several Umrahs rituals in one visit. They can be for your own spirituality or each Umrah can be dedicated to a loved one who has passed on or a living person who is unable to make the journey.  On the last last day of my stay in Mecca, I performed a second Umrah for my mom, Jeja, who is physically unable to make the long journey to Saudi Arabia.

Different faces of Tawaf

I feel blessed to have visited the land where one of world’s most influential and successful religious and political leaders, Prophet Muhammad, PBUH, was born. Sharing a prayer rug with an African, Arab and a Pakistani pilgrim, I experienced the strength of spirituality in creating bonds between people of different races and backgrounds.  However, I didn’t come away with a major religious epiphany and I was not inspired to become a more devout Muslim.

In my two week journey I met pilgrims who were dogmatically going through the motions and others who were busy finding mistakes in what others were doing and  going out of their way to educate everyone on the “right way” of being a Muslim.

Grand Kaaba and it's beauty

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Then there was my friend, Sonia Sekandar, who I call my Umrah mentor. Her genuine love of Islam, the prophet  and this pilgrimage was inspiring. She dispensed information without judgement, she provided support when I needed it and she encouraged individual thinking when many were set on mindlessly following the Umrah rites.

Sonia is deeply immersed in her love of Islam and I could see she drew energy from her 8th visit to the holy sites. I envy her unconditional love and acceptance of everyone she meets and her acceptance of me, a novice pilgrim. She could see that I was in a different stage of my spiritual quest and went out of her way to validate my journey.

It was my interaction with Sonia that helped me come away with a better understanding of why religion is a big part of many people’s lives and the importance of structure, community, and spiritual support that is hard to find in the disparate world we live in today. I’m grateful for making this journey with a mentor like Sonia.