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PORK EATING AFGHANS - MY REFUGEE STORY

September 15, 2015

By Humaira

I read this fictionalized short story of my family's accidental run in with pork and the trials of resettlement in a foreign land in my writer’s workshop.  Many people shared that they too had similar experiences. I realized that perhaps there are similar stories out there that we can all relate to on some level.  This post is in honor of World Refugee Day 2014

Pork Eating Afghans - My Love Affair with SPAM

It’s our family’s first week as political refugees in Germany.  Food stamps safely tucked in her purse, Jeja, my mother, scans the shelves of the German supermarket with awe and confusion.  We walk up and down the endless aisles, our mouths gaping; we have never seen so many varieties of chocolates, sodas and breads.

When the social worker handed Jeja the bundle of food stamps, my 11-year-old mathematical mind converted Deutschmarks into Afghanis. I am overjoyed at our wealth. But soon I realize we are not so rich after all.

In the unwisely chosen Ambassador Hotel in the red light district of Frankfurt, Afghan refugee are crammed in rooms too small for their families.  Most of these Afghans come from well-to-do families with big homes, servants and walled in compounds where family secrets are kept safe from outsiders.  In 1979 when the Russian tanks rolled into Kabul the educated and wealthy Afghan’s were pushed right out of the country into foreign lands.  Now, the Ambassador Hotel is a stew of frustration, discontent and lost hopes, wafting its foul smell through halls brightly lit with fluorescent lights.

Among the refugees, a thin, tall and self-important woman has appointed herself as advisor to all newcomers. We called her “Bossy Lady.” She gives advice on how to navigate the streets of Frankfurt, how to ride public transportation without paying and how to shop wisely to make food stamps last. But her advice is not free; in return for her help she extracts every family’s tragic story, which she stores in the vault of her mind. Perhaps our tragedies help her forget her son’s early death at the hands of Russian soldiers.

In Afghanistan we ate fresh food, but living in a hotel room without a refrigerator or a stove Jeja has to be creative with meals.  Which is how we learn about canned food.  Bossy Lady gives us sample cans of garbanzo beans, kidney beans and a special meat called Spam, which she raves about; it is delicious, very cheap and it doesn’t go bad.

That night we have a feast.  German rye bread, garbanzo bean, yogurt and sliced Spam. We love the salty and creamy texture of Spam and ask for seconds.  Not knowing German or the ingredients of this magical meat Jeja wonders how on earth did they make this beef so tasty, so long lasting and so pink.

As we find our footing in our safe new world we slowly lose fears of exploding bombs, entrapment or being shot by Russian soldiers on the side of the road.  Since most of us are just passing through here on our way to our final destinations, we live an amorphous life.  Our days start and end without much structure except for breakfast.  Everyday between 7-8 am all residents of the Ambassador Hotel meet for the only meal where we sit in a dining room with tables, clean starched white tablecloths and proper serving dishes.  The servers offer tea, coffee or milk with soft warm rolls, eggs butter and jam.  Since most of us left lives where we were served and treated with dignity, we cherish this one meal.

But on a random Tuesday, we again lose our footing.  We emerge from the elevator around 7:30 am to find a major commotion in the breakfast hall.   Women are wailing. Men look like they are mourning the death of their first-born son and children are looking down into their hands with shame.  The Bossy Lady is in the center of the room eyes wide open with the whites showing, hands flailing as she shares the horrible event that brings us disgrace.

It turns out a young Afghan man has befriended Germans and learned that Spam is not beef.  Spam is short for Spiced Ham.  This young man and his family sit in the corner of the room, far away from everyone, looking guilty, as if the whole Spam incident is their fault. You see, eating pork is a major sin in Islam and right there we have 300 pork eating Muslims.

The Afghan mothers who are expected to be the protectors of piety are tormented every day when they leave the hotel with their children in tow and have to pass windows dressed by nude prostitutes selling their bodies.  Now they have to face the extra sin piled upon their families: the consumption of pork. 

Finally, the Bossy Lady states what we already know. No one could be blamed for this; since everyone unknowingly participated in the Spam gluttony it is not a sin in the eyes of Allah.  That settles it; her statement gives us all permission to accept our innocence.  From that day on not a single can of Spam entered through the doors of the Ambassador Hotel, but it was too late for me. I could not forget its delicious taste.

Spam-attack-640

Spam-attack-640

* Bossy Lady is a fictional character

Except where otherwise noted, all content on this blog is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported license.

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In Humaira's Musings
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Kabba during Haj

Kabba during Haj

SECULAR MUSLIM GOES TO MECCA-MY PERSONAL JOURNEY: PART I

September 11, 2015

Part II is available. 

By Humaira

My Islamic education came to an abrupt end when I was nine years old.

I was raised in a secular home with Islam as a backdrop for special occasions that required some semblance of order—funerals, weddings and naming of babies. My father was an academic who studied all religions, with a slight preference for Islam. Jeja, my mother, wasn't a devout Muslim either, but feared God’s wrath. So, once a week, she sent my little brother Tamim and me for formal religious instruction at the local mosque.

Ghulam Farouq and Khadija Ghilzai - My parents in Kabul

Ghulam Farouq and Khadija Ghilzai - My parents in Kabul

During one of our Quran lessons the mullah singled Tamim and I out, declaring our mother was a sinner in the eyes of Allah because she wore skirts and showed her legs. This was 1977, long before the Taliban. I corrected the mullah, noting that Islam gave women the right to wear what they want and that he was a big liar for condemning my mother to hell.

The mullah landed a slap on my seven-year-old brother’s face to punish me for my disobedience. As a protective big sister, I did what I was supposed to do—I grabbed my brother’s hand and ran out of the mosque as I called the mullah several names that should not be repeated here.

Here I am with my arms protectively around Tamim

Here I am with my arms protectively around Tamim

Our hearts thumping we leapt over the shoes piled neatly at the mosque's entrance and plunged into the deep Kabul winter snow in our bare feet, running away as fast as we could. We weren’t followed. Shivering and scared, Tamim with the red handprint on his cheek wanted to go home, but I wanted my boots and revenge. We snuck back to the mosque, grabbed our boots and, as a last act of defiance, filled all the remaining shoes at the mosque's door with snow. 

We weren’t invited back.

Living in San Francisco, far from the Afghan community in the Bay Area, I only see the inside of a mosque when there is a funeral. You can imagine everyone’s surprise when I announced my decision to make a pilgrimage to Mecca. Friends and family stared at me blankly, asked if I was “OK” and wondered loudly if I’m having a mid-life crisis.

For those of you who are not familiar with Islam, Umrah, also known as minor pilgrimage, is a visit to Mecca performed by Muslims at any time of the year. In contrast, the Hajj, draws millions of people to Mecca during one 5 day period in the last month of the Islamic year. Hajj fulfills one of the five pillars of Islam that all able-bodied Muslims must complete before their death. I’m doing Umrah.

It was about two years ago when I started fantasizing about a trip to Mecca and Medina—to experience the power of Islam's holiest sights. I imagined it would be moving, sharing this spiritual adventure with thousands of others, all donned in white clothes from head to toe as we follow the footsteps of Prophet Muhammad, Peace Be Upon Him (PBUH) around the Kabba (home of God).

The opportunity to take this trip came sooner that I expected. A few weeks ago I found out my favorite aunt was making the pilgrimage at the end of March with a group of Afghan-Americans elders. I decided to tag along, after all, it’s not everyday I will find someone who wants to go on a pilgrimage.

The euphoria of my decision turned into a burden when elder relatives called to congratulate me for making the holy pilgrimage. Surprised by this reception, I realized I was stepping into a bigger obligation than I had anticipated.

My first attempt at wearing a hijab

My first attempt at wearing a hijab

In my next post I’ll share with you the details of my preparation for the trip and my spiritual journey as I re-learned how to be a Muslim.

 

Part II of this post can be found at the following link.

If you’ve been to Mecca and Medina, please share your experiences with me by commenting at the end of this post.

In Humaira's Musings, Afghan Culture
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Masjid Al-Qibilatain, Medina

Masjid Al-Qibilatain, Medina

SECULAR MUSLIM GOES TO MECCA- PILGRIMAGE PREP 101: PART II

September 10, 2015

You may want to read Part I first. 

By Humaira

As we celebrate Nowroz, the Afghan New Year, I’m planning an adventure—my first pilgrimage to Mecca. Yesterday I posted about how I, a secular Muslim with little knowledge of Islam, decided to take this journey.

This post is about the arrangement details of the trip.

Before preparing spiritually for the pilgrimage, I had to tackle the visa instructions for Umrah. The Saudi Embassy requires a notarized permission slip for all women traveling without a mahram, a male relative. Jim, enjoying his new found power, jokingly refused to sign my permission slip.

Jim's notarized permission slip for my trip

Jim's notarized permission slip for my trip

I also learned that sometimes the Saudi Embassy refuses entry visas to “younger” women who travel without a mahram—I needed to look worthy of the pilgrimage in the visa photos—plain and pious. It took the CVS photographer many attempts to capture me with  an appropriately saintly look and without my hair peeking out from under the headscarf.

I’m grateful I can afford to make this pilgrimage and be welcomed in these cities as a Muslim. Saudi Arabia, however, requires all pilgrims to make the pilgrimage with the clearest intention and devotion—no beach holidays in Dubai before transiting to Mecca. The Embassy even holds on to your passport until the last minute to make sure of this. My flight is next week but I still haven’t received my entry visa. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

Jeja, my mother, warned me that I must dress appropriately in Medina—plain, modest clothes that cover me from head to ankle. In Mecca, all pilgrims dress in new, white clothes just as the Prophet Muhammad, Peace Be Upon Him (PBUH) and his followers did during their return to Mecca after being ousted.

Not a single item in my closet was long enough, loose enough or pious enough for this journey. Luckily East Essence, a Silicon Valley based online Islamic store, carries appropriate outfits and head covers at reasonable prices. When I visit Afghanistan, I wear a light linen headscarf that hangs loosely around my face. In Saudi Arabia they wear a hijab-style headdress that tightly wraps the face and masks the hair.  In dire need of instructions I searched the internet and found the YouTube channel HijabTrendz, a life saver. 

Polka dot Abaya from East Essence

Polka dot Abaya from East Essence

With my wardrobe set, I tackled the next pressing problem—learning how to properly pray five times a day. No respectable Muslim will admit publicly that they don’t know how to pray, and I wasn’t about to turn to anyone for help. So, I quietly cursed the Mullah who ended my religious studies at age nine, and again turned to the Internet for help.

Although 1.6 bilion Muslims believe in one God, their practice of Islam differs greatly. I was overwhelmed by the myriad of different prayer practices and couldn’t figure out which one I should follow. But, then I came across the Muslim Converts website—a dumbed down, step-by-step instruction covering the five daily prayers for new converts. After practicing the printed instructions I graduated to a YouTube channel where each of the five prayers is performed in easy to follow videos.

I must admit, taking five breaks a day to perform ablutions and then praying is a wonderful way to bring peace and meditation to a hectic workday. I just hope I can sustain it beyond the trip.

In the past year I’ve found myself defending Islam and Muslims as a peaceful people, but the atrocities of ISIS and the massacre of Charlie Hebdo cartoonists provoked doubts for me. I realized my knowledge of Islam and Prophet Muhammad, PBUH were limited to stories from my childhood. This pilgrimage gave me the motivation to dig deeper and better understand the origin and current state of Islam—making me a better spokesperson.

To learn more about Islam, I plunged into reading several books.  Two stood out: Reza Aslan’s book, No God But God and Tamim Ansary’s book, Destiny Disrupted. Both these authors shine a clear, objective and knowledgeable light on the complex history and culture of Islam.  

I also found  documentaries—Empire of Faith, PBS Documentary and Decoding The Past, Secrets of The Koran—rigorous in recounting the evolution of Islam. The common theme captured by these works that resonated the most with me was that the Prophet preached Islam to be an extension of Judaism and Christianity. He had great respect for the Jews and Christians of Saudi Arabia, and even based some Muslim religious practices on their traditions. We don’t hear this perspective from Islamic zealots or from Islam’s haters.

Perhaps after my trip, I’ll tackle reading the Quran.

Islamic art

Islamic art

 

I hope that I’ll learn more about the true meaning of being a Muslim as I walk, pray and meet Muslims from Africa, India, Indonesia and even the United States. After all, in Mecca everyone is meant to be equal—wealth, gender, race and status are irrelevant in the eyes of Allah—dressed in white, taking the same steps as Prophet Muhammad, PBUH.

Part I of this series is available at this link.

I plan to blog and post pictures with availability of Wi-Fi and time. I hope to give you a glimpse into a world we know very little about.

Nowroz Mubarak to my Afghan friends and family … and to you..  Here are some of my previous posts about the celebration and traditions of the Afghan New Year: Afghan Fruit Medley for New Year, Afghan New Year/Nowroz Celebration 101, Nowroz Stories: My Afghan American Life.

In Humaira's Musings, Afghan Culture
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