SECULAR MUSLIM GOES TO MECCA AND RETURNS WORLDLY: PART V

By Humaira

Last week I returned home after spending three weeks in places women normally don’t choose to go for fun—Saudi Arabia and Afghanistan.  Yup, I made a quick jaunt to Kabul after my pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina. Read about my trip to Afghanistan in my next post.  Here’s the concluding post on my pilgrimage.

In the haze of jet lag from flying halfway around the world and the confusion of sorting out my children’s carpools after my return I hope I can clearly convey my experiences especially since I’m still making sense of my pilgrimage juxtaposed against my current life.

In the previous series of posts (Part I, II, III, IV) I wrote about why I made the unlikely decision to do Umrah, a pilgrimage performed by Muslims, and how I prepared for the trip.

After arriving at Kaaba, Islam’s holiest site, some of my co-pilgrims and I performed specific Umrah rituals symbolic of the lives of Prophet Ibrahim and his wife, Hajar. The Umrah (in Arabic Umrah means populated place) acts we performed, outlined below, are believed to erase a pilgrim’s sins and it brings solidarity among Muslims around the world.

I'm in Ihram, ready to start my first Umrah

Entering the state of Irham: Prior to wearing my new Irham, the simple white outfit required for the pilgrimage, I was instructed to clip my nails, take a shower and make the intent to do Umrah. Perfumes, makeup or extravagant clothes are discouraged. The simple white clothes break down any wealth or status barrier and unite the pilgrims in their stated intent to perform Umrah.

Men in Irham doing tawaf

Tawaf of the Kaaba: Tawaf is the act of circling of the Kaaba seven times counter clockwise while reciting specific verses of the Quran. Like all faith based rituals, you get out of tawaf what you put into it. Some people around me walked trance-like and others cried. And then there were people like me, clinging to co-pilgrims in fear—fear or being lost, trampled or even worse, losing a headscarf. Tawaf can be done at anytime, but it counts towards Umrah only if you do it in conjunction of all these rituals. Once I became more comfortable with my surroundings and I found the best route into Mosque Al Haram and Kaaba, I performed tawaf every day. I found it most peaceful and spiritual when I walked without my co-travelers who always had helpful commentary and suggestions.

Video I took of of Pilgrims doing Tawaf 

Sa'yee between the hills of Safa and Marwa: Sa'yee consists of walking rapidly walking back and forth between the hills of Safa and Marwa, now small rock formations in the Mosque of Haram, located right next to the Kaaba.

Sa’yee is the re-enactment of Hajar's frantic search for water after Prophet Ibrahim, her husband, was commanded by God to leave her and their infant son Ismael in the desert between Safa and Marwa hills. Once they ran out of water from her basic provision, with infant Ismael’s life in her hands, Hajar went in search of water. She first climbed Safa, to look over the surrounding area—unsuccessful, she then ran up Marwa, to look in the other direction for help.

Marwa hill - image from Masjid Al Haram Blog

Hajar travelled back and forth between the two hills seven times in the scorching Saudi heat before returning to her son, Ismael, only to find a water well revealed where baby Ismael’s heel had been striking the ground as he screamed with thirst. Some Muslims believe Angel Jibreel hit the ground with his wing to reveal this miraculous spring, known as Zamzam. The well saved Hajar and Ismael’s life. It’s said that the well was God’s reward for her patience.

Muslim’s recite Zamzam’s miracle to their children and pilgrims drink the well’s holy water, which is believed to have healing powers. Originally, the water from the well was drawn via ropes and buckets while pilgrims drank at it’s source. Now it’s protected from the public and a high-tech hydraulic systems draws the water from the ground. Zamzam water is available throughout the Masjid al-Haram via water fountains.

Walkway between Safa and Marwa - image from Masjid Al Haram Blog

Unlike Hajar’s harrowing experience, we walked on a covered and well ventilated marbled path that connects the Safa and Marwa hills. I personally found this step of the ritual tranquil—I walked down the wide path without being pushed, shoved or kicked and I thought of Hajar’s fight to save her child as mothers do every day.

Taqsir, Exiting Irham: Taqsir is the act of cutting one’s hair, and the last step of the Umrah rituals. It’s meant to demonstrate sincerity and humility to Allah without caring for one's physical appearance.

Some men shave their heads and others cut a one inch lock. Women are encouraged to only cut a snippet of their hair and forgo the drastic act of shaving. I felt a little guilty, as if I was cheating the system, since taqsir didn’t seem like a big sacrifice for me—cutting two inches off my long hair didn’t make much of a difference in my appearance. However, I was happy to bring closure to our important journey.

One can do several Umrahs rituals in one visit. They can be for your own spirituality or each Umrah can be dedicated to a loved one who has passed on or a living person who is unable to make the journey.  On the last last day of my stay in Mecca, I performed a second Umrah for my mom, Jeja, who is physically unable to make the long journey to Saudi Arabia.

Different faces of Tawaf

I feel blessed to have visited the land where one of world’s most influential and successful religious and political leaders, Prophet Muhammad, PBUH, was born. Sharing a prayer rug with an African, Arab and a Pakistani pilgrim, I experienced the strength of spirituality in creating bonds between people of different races and backgrounds.  However, I didn’t come away with a major religious epiphany and I was not inspired to become a more devout Muslim.

In my two week journey I met pilgrims who were dogmatically going through the motions and others who were busy finding mistakes in what others were doing and  going out of their way to educate everyone on the “right way” of being a Muslim.

Grand Kaaba and it's beauty

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Then there was my friend, Sonia Sekandar, who I call my Umrah mentor. Her genuine love of Islam, the prophet  and this pilgrimage was inspiring. She dispensed information without judgement, she provided support when I needed it and she encouraged individual thinking when many were set on mindlessly following the Umrah rites.

Sonia is deeply immersed in her love of Islam and I could see she drew energy from her 8th visit to the holy sites. I envy her unconditional love and acceptance of everyone she meets and her acceptance of me, a novice pilgrim. She could see that I was in a different stage of my spiritual quest and went out of her way to validate my journey.

It was my interaction with Sonia that helped me come away with a better understanding of why religion is a big part of many people’s lives and the importance of structure, community, and spiritual support that is hard to find in the disparate world we live in today. I’m grateful for making this journey with a mentor like Sonia.

KABUL UNDER SIEGE - MARTYR FARKHUNDA’S CITY

by Humaira

After spending two oppressive weeks in Saudi Arabia, where the sky was hidden behind a grey haze, the air was filled with sand and the piety police (official or self appointed) made me overly paranoid—landing in Kabul was like stepping into the free world.

The clear blue sky welcomed my plane as it landed at the newly refurbished Kabul airport. A jetway met the plane door ushering us directly into the terminal—not the norm in this part of the world. The customs official was polite and speedy and Kabul’s fresh air was a welcome reprieve to my asthmatic lungs.

Kabul mountain range

Once safely tucked into my cousin’s white Toyota, we caught up on family, current events and Kabul security— he assured me Kabul is very safe. I didn’t tell him that the US State Department travel alert said differently.

In the short car ride to his house I noted the number of women roaming Kabul streets without a burka. Having spent two weeks in Saudi Arabia, where women were covered from head to toe, the Kabul scene stood out.

Beautiful women of Kabul

Near Kabul University, young girls sporting skinny jeans and long tunics walked with locked arms, sporting small thin head-scarves that barely covered their stylish hairdos.

How could this be the same city where Farkhunda was brutally murdered three weeks earlier while a mob cheered on the killers?

Kabul is cleaner and more orderly than my last trip three years ago, but it felt more dangerous. The checkpoints with machine gun toting policemen peeking into cars made me feel I was in a city preparing for siege.  

Despite the fragility of the city, I found a unity in people’s reflection on Farkhunda’s killing, uncommon for Afghans.  Everyone I met—man, woman and child—recounted where they were when they heard about Farkhunda’s brutal beating. Everyone I met, renunciated Farkhunda’s killing with shame and horror. Everyone I met, said they will not allow something like this to happen again. It’s not often people are satisfied with the police under such circumstance but surprisingly, many feel the government has done a good job of  identifying and arresting the criminals. Now they wait for real justice, the verdicts of the trials.

Shahed Shamshayray Mosque where Farkhunda was accused of burning the Quran

The Kabul city officials have honored Farkhunda by naming the square near Shahid Shamsharay Wali Mosque—where she was murdered—Farkhunda Square.

"Martyred Farkhunda Square"

Several hundred yards down the road from the mosque, a banner asking for justice, hangs where Farkhunda’s savagely beaten body was dropped into the dry Kabul riverbed before it was burnt to a crisp. A man has put up a red poster stating “My martyred sister Farkhunda” with a poem in her honor. Men and women stop to pray and tie shreds of colorful fabric commemorating Farkhunda’s martyrdom.

Farkhunda's memorial

Farkunda’s legend grows with stories appearing on Afghan social media—in one recount, her father recounts that when she was ten, Farkhunda dreamt that in seventeen years she would die a brutal death.

Forty nine people were arrested. On Wednesday May 5th, four were sentenced to death by hanging, eight were sentenced to 16 years in jail and 18 were set free due to a lack of evidence. The court is adjourned until Saturday. The remaining 19 suspects are policemen—we wait for the new Afghan government to showcase the rule of law and justice in the verdicts for the indictment of police officer who stood by for the the duration of two hours when Farkhunda was beaten, run over by a car, dropped into Kabul riverbed and burnt. The result of this trial will set the course for the future of Afghan women's rights, gender equality and humane treatment.

My trip highlight was meeting these delightful children in Kabul, I want them to enjoy the same rights and educational opportunities as my daughters. I left my heart with them.

AFGHANISTAN'S ADMIRED FIRST LADY - RULA GHANI

By Humaira

By Humaira

Do you know Afghanistan’s new first lady?

Rula Ghani (nickname Bibi Gul) was born in Lebanon. She met Ashraf Ghani, the new President of Afghanistan, while getting her masters degree in journalism from University of Beirut in the ‘70s–she has a second masters from Columbia University. Rula Ghani speaks Dari, English, French and Arabic fluently. Despite her impressive academic achievements, Rula Ghani chose raising her two children, Tarek and Mariam, over a career. 

In a television interview, when asked if it was difficult to marry into an Afghan family, she waved away the question, claiming there wasn’t much difference between the two cultures—we value family, we respect elders, we socialize similarly and we eat similar foods.  

During the ten years of President Hamid Karzai's rule as head of state, the world barely glimpsed his wife, Doctor Zeenat Quraishi. You would imagine that Rula Ghani's visible role would cause a riot in Afghanistan–instead, her being a Christian has motivated her husband's opponents to indoctrinate Afghan people with fears of a second Crusade by the first lady. The Western media has fanned the flames of controversy by noting her religion in the first paragraph of every English speaking article I’ve read about her.

When asked about her religion, her answer is simple, logical and believable.

“My husband stands on his own two feet; my religion is not a factor.”

— Rula Ghani

Despite criticism from conservatives and opponents of her husband, Rula Ghani has won over many of us with her gracious presence and candid talk about issues plaguing Afghan society ranging from–internal displacement of returning Afghan refugee to women's issues. She’s especially liked and admired by Afghan women. She's the first person I've heard cite the importance of Afghan women who stay home and raise their children as contributing and deserving members of Afghanistan's civil society. Of course, she encourages Afghan female leaders to be vocal and go after what they want. Here is a an excerpt from Rula Ghani’s speech at the Oslo Symposium in November of 2014 -

“I am so glad to note the use of the term “empowerment” [of women] in the theme of this symposium. Indeed, unconsciously perhaps, international aid in the past 13 years has created a culture of dependency [in Afghanistan]. And we need to figure out how to turn around aid recipients into active entrepreneurs, skilled workers, daring and creative innovators.”

— Rula Ghani

She offers herself as a sounding board and advocate for Afghan women, not a savior. She feels Afghan women have the strength and know how to chart their own path, if given the opportunity.

“We need to give Afghan women the tools to succeed. And by we, I mean both the Afghan government and the international community working in concert.

We need to provide them with a higher quality of education;
We need to ensure their access to health services;
We need to give them access to the legal system by multiplying the legal aid clinics so that they can exercise their rights to owning property and to a life free of harassment and violence;
We need to provide small loans to women who would like to start their own business;e need to encourage investors to concentrate on setting factories that rely on woman labor; and the list goes on.

But above all we need to let Afghan women know that they are and should be productive members of their society. ”

— Rula Ghani, Oslo Symposium

I’m excited about Afghanistan’s future. I believe President Ashraf Ghani has the extensive experience needed to develop Afghanistan's economy and with the support of his allies, will be able to move the country toward peace and stability.

I’m also thrilled that Afghan women have a loud voice with the first lady's support and get a chance to be part of Afghanistan’s civil future.

I hope that we take lessons from mistakes of the past, and chart a different trajectory for Afghanistan in the next century with the new leadership and better understanding of what is needed for a stable future in Afghanistan.

In honor of Afghanistan’s first lady, Rula Ghani, I would like to share a special Lebanese recipe from Taste of Beirut, a blog written by food writer Joumana Accad. 

In this episode of my #cooking show, I show you how to make the #popular #Shawarma,a juicy and flavorful beef sandwich. If you like what you see, Check out my book and other recipes at www.TasteofBeirut.com Shawarma | Taste of Beirut Shot on location in the Chouf Mountains of Lebanon.