TEA AND HOSPITALITY IN AFGHANISTAN PART I

Helen Saberi

By guest blogger: Helen Saberi

As the small aeroplane from Peshawar came into land bumpily at Kabul airport on 4 March 1971 little did I know that I was to marry an Afghan and spend the next nine years happily living in Afghanistan. My first impressions from the air were of the snow-capped mountains circling what seemed like a huge dust bowl. However, after these first rather daunting impressions I grew to love Afghanistan – its stark and stunning scenery, the brilliant blue skies, snow-clad mountains, lush green valleys, the colourful and bustling bazaars; but most of all I loved it for the wonderful hospitable people.

TeaforTwo

Hospitality and tea play a very important part in the lives of the Afghan people. Tea is drunk copiously throughout the day. The warmth and generosity of Afghan hospitality can be almost overwhelming at times. During the time I lived in Afghanistan I was lucky enough to travel around the country visiting places and towns such as Herat, Mazar-e-Sharif, Kunduz, Bamian, Bandimeer, Kandahar, Jalalabad and many other places. I was also fortunate enough to be a guest in many households. A guest is always made to feel welcome and special. He or she will be invited to sit in the place of honour at the head of the room and made comfortable on colourful cushions called tushak with a pillow (bolesht) placed behind to lean back on before being offered tea.

Tea (chai) will be served. It may be green tea or black. 

Meanwhile the host’s family will be preparing the best possible food. The tea is sometimes served in small glasses called istakhan or small porcelain handle-less bowls, similar to the Chinese tea bowl, called piala. 

TeawithAghanNationalPolice

Western style cups may be used, especially in the cities. The first cup of tea is usually served with an enormous amount of sugar – the more sugar, the more honour. Another Afghan custom is to have the first cup of tea sweet, chai shireen, followed by another cup without sugar, called chai talkh.  Many people dip sugar lumps or cubes, called qand, in their tea which they then hold in their mouths as they sip the tea.  Sometimes, especially if it is winter, ghur, which is a kind of lump sugar made from sugar cane, is served with tea because of its warming properties.  Chai is often flavoured with green or white cardamom – the pod is opened and the seeds crushed and sprinkled over the tea.  Sometimes a whole pod is lightly crushed and put into the teapot before boiling water is poured over. 

Noqul

Noqul, sugar covered almonds with a hint of cardamom Your glass or cup is constantly refilled by your host. You must remember to turn your glass or cup over when you have had enough otherwise the refilling will continue! Sometimes tea is served in individual teapots allowing the guest to pour out as much or as little tea he needs or requires. Very often you will be provided with a small bowl for the dregs. 

Sweets called shirnee often accompany the tea, especially for guests.  These can be ‘chocolate’ (not what we know as chocolate but actually locally-made toffees).  

Noql are particularly popular. These are almonds, pistachios or chickpeas coated in sugar.  Noql-e-badomi (sugared almonds) are the most popular but my favourite were the noql-e-nakhod (with chickpeas) which were tasty and very moreish.   

Humaira in a Kabul pastry shop In the afternoon biscuits (kulcha) may also be served with tea. Although cakes, biscuits and desserts are a luxury in Afghanistan they are often served to guests. I remember very well when unexpected guests arrived in the afternoon we would send a young member of the family or the servant to go and buy biscuits from the bazaar. 

Kabul pastry and sweet shop

Many different types were available. My favourite ones were ab-e-dandon which means ‘melt in the mouth’ and they really did!  If it was Nauroz (the Afghan New Year) then kulcha-e-Naurozee (also known as kulcha-e-birinji – rice biscuits) were popular. If one knew guests were coming biscuits or pastries might be made at home. For special occasions delicious light and crispy goash-e-feel (literally ‘elephant’s ear’) pastries might be made.

I have vivid memories of the time I visited my husband’s relatives in Kunduz and being shown how to make fritter-like biscuits called kulcha-e-panjerei (meaning ‘window biscuits’) by my husband’s cousin Mahgul. There were, of course, other sweetmeats for us to enjoy but this has remained in my memory for all these years. 

I remember the batter being made, the wok-like pan containing oil being heated up over a fire and the fritter iron being used. I remember the sweet crispness of the biscuits.  Kulcha-e-panjerei are light and delicate and best eaten when they have cooled down but still fresh and crisp dusted with a little icing sugar just as I ate them in Kunduz many years ago. Here is the recipe. 

Kulcha-e-Panjerei

You will need a fritter iron like the one shown in the drawing below, although the patterns do vary considerably. I have one in the shape of a butterfly and one in the shape of a flower.

2 medium eggs

1 tsp sugar

¼ tsp salt

4 oz (110 g) plain flour

1 cup (225 ml) milk

2 tsp melted butter

oil for frying

icing sugar for dusting

Beat the eggs in a bowl until well blended. Add and mix in well the sugar and salt then gradually stir in the flour alternately with the milk and the melted butter. Beat well. Heat about 4” (10 cm) oil in a deep pan or fryer to 200o C (400o F).   Immerse the fritter iron in the hot oil to season. Then dip it in the batter, making sure the batter does not cover the top of the iron. Immerse quickly in the hot oil for about 20 to 30 seconds, until the bubbles disappear and the biscuit is golden brown. Remove the fritter carefully from the iron, if necessary with a fork, and drain. Repeat until all the batter is used up. When cool, dust with icing sugar. These are best served immediately and do not store well in a tin.

*Next week, Helen's post will continue with the recipe for Qaymaq Chai. A  special milk tea made for celebrations or hosting guests.

Recipes come from Afghan

Food and Cookeryby Helen Saberi published by Hippocrene in the United

States.  

Except where otherwise noted, all content on this blog is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported license.

AFGHANISTAN'S NATIONAL DISH - KABULI PALAU

A delicious plate of Qabili Palau

By Humaira

An Afghan woman's marriage prospects hinges on her ability to make Palau. So, you can imagine how much thought and effort goes into perfecting the Afghan rice dish. To this day my children and husband tell me that my Palau is not as good as my mom's. Thank goodness Jim didn't test my Palau making skills before he proposed to me over 17 years ago.

Jeja, my mom, makes the best Kabuli Palau in our family.  My cousins request this dish when they visit her. Kabuli Palau was created by the upper class families of Kabul who could afford to include caramalized carrots, plump raisins and coveted nuts in their rice.

Over time as people in Afghanistan became wealthier this dish became more common. So, the name was changed from Kabuli Palau to Qabili Palau. The Dari word Qabil - means well accomplished, indicating that only a skilled chef can truely balance the various flavors of this dish. 

The most important part of making Qabili Palaus is to keep the rice from breaking while it develops a deep rich brown color in the multi step cooking process. Most people think we use brown rice, let me tell you folks, I had not seen brown rice until I was well into my 20's when I started cooking for myself. The white, long grain rice takes on a rich brown color from the caramalized onions and chicken sauce.

Using unprocessed, long grain white rice is key in having success with this dish.  I buy rice from the Afghan grocery market which passes muster with Jeja.  I soak the rice in water for at least an hour to plump up the grains but most store bought Basmati rice can't handle the soaking and the two step cooking technique. That is why I left out the soaking in my recipe.

This dish takes me around 1:45 minutes from start to finish. I have integrated short cuts to help save time. I know Jeja would frown upon some of my techniques but I have made sure that the Palau retains the rich flavors of the original recipe.

I hope you too can make the best Kabuli/Qabili Palau from this this updated recipe.

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Uncooked raisins, carrots & almonds 

Kabuli/Qabili Palau - Afghanistan’s National Dish

4 cups basmati rice

5 skinless chicken legs

5 skinless chicken thighs

3 medium  yellow onions, peeled and quartered

½ c plus 2 tbsp.  olive oil or vegetable oil, divided

5 tsp. salt

1 cup chicken broth

3 large carrots, peeled

1 cup black raisins

½ cup slivered almonds

3 tbsp. sugar

¾ cup water

2 tsp. ground cumin

1 ½ tsp. ground cardamom

½ tsp. ground black pepper

12 cups water

2 tbsp. browning sauce such at Kitchen Bouquet (optional)*

Instructions:  

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.

Immerse rice in a bowl of water and drain in a colander.  Repeat this step 3 times. 

Wash and dry the chicken.  Set aside.

Chop the onions in a food processor using the pulse button.  Don't puree the onions.  You can do this by hand if you prefer. 

Choose a sauté pan that is at least a couple inches deep and large enough to fit all the chicken.  Pour ½ cup of the oil in the pan and sauté the onions over high heat, stirring quickly, until brown (5-10 minutes). Don't burn them. 

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The onions take on a deep rich brown color

Add the chicken to the pan and sprinkle with 3 tsp. of the salt.  Cook the chicken over medium-high heat for 6 minutes, turning from time to time so all sides turn golden brown.  The onion will start to caramelize and turn into a thick sauce. 

Add 1/4 cup of the chicken broth, and continue stirring to keep the chicken from burning.  Once the liquid has been absorbed, add another 1/4 cup of chicken broth, bring it to a boil, cover with a lid or aluminum foil, and simmer for 10 minutes.  The sauce should turn a dark brown.  If your sauce does not take on a dark color you can add the Kitchen Bouquet to give it color.

While the chicken is cooking, cut the carrots into long think matchsticks, about 4 inches long and 1/8-inch thick.  Make sure that they are not too thin.  In a large frying pan add ¾ cups of water and bring to a boil, add the carrots and cook until tender and a deep orange hue, 5 to 7 minutes. 

Keep a close eye on this to make sure you do not overcook them.   Once the carrots are done, drain any leftover liquid out of the pan.   Add the remaining 2 tbsp of oil, raisins, almonds and sugar to the carrots.   Stir quickly over medium-high heat and keep stirring for about 3 minutes.  The raisins will look plump; the carrots will take on a nice sweet flavor.  Remove from heat and package the carrots into a sealed aluminum foil pouch about the size of a small paperback novel. 

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Cooked carrot, raisins and almond in a pouch

Remove the chicken pieces from the broth and set aside.  Stir the cumin, cardamom and black pepper into the broth.  Continue to cook on low for 5 minutes to allow it to thicken.  

Meanwhile, measure 12 cups of water and the remaining 2 tsp. of salt into a large Dutch oven or pot (see our Palau post for photos) with a fitted lid.  Bring it to a boil.  Add the rice to the water and boil until it is al dente (nearly cooked, though still slightly crunchy).  This will take just a few minutes depending on the rice you use. You will have to taste it to check for doneness.  Do not overcook it. 

Immediately strain the rice through a colander.  Put the rice back into the cooking pot and add the sauce from the chicken.  Mix well.  Arrange the chicken pieces on top of the rice.  Set the aluminum package of carrots on top of the rice.  This will keep the carrots warm and deepen the flavors without mixing with the rice yet.

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Qabili Palau pot ready to go into the oven

Bake the rice for 15 minutes in 500 degrees then drop the temperature down to 250 degrees.  Cook for another 20 minutes. 

Arrange the chicken pieces on a large platter, cover with the rice.  Sprinkle the carrots, raisins, and almonds on the rice.  Serve with a simple salata.

 Serves 6-8

Except where otherwise noted, all content on this blog is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported license.

A PEEK IN THE AFGHAN PANTRY

By Humaira

People always ask me if  ingredients for Afghan recipes are hard to find. The answer to this is always a resounding “no”. While there are a small handful of unusual ingredients in Afghan cooking, the great majority of what’s needed can be found in your neighborhood supermarket such as Safeway, Ralph’s, or Whole Foods. Living in the San Francisco Bay Area has many advantages (house prices are not one of them) including accessibility to ethnic grocery stores. However, you can access a large selection of more exotic ingredients online at www.sadaf.com.I have not used this site since I purchase Sadaf brands in my local ethnic market, but I have friends who rely on it for specialty ingredients.

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Here is a peek into our pantry with a breakdown of the ingredients most commonly used in Afghan cooking. We hope this will make it fun and easy for you to try our Afghan recipes.

• Herbs and Spices

In Afghanistan spices are typically bought in bulk and ground as needed.But as busy moms and home cooks, we buy most spices already ground and packaged.Below is the list of the most commonly used herbs and spices:

Coriander

Cardamom

Paprika

Cumin

Cinnamon

Turmeric

Black pepper

Sea Salt

Ginger, fresh and dried

Dill

Dried garlic

Fresh cilantro

Mint, fresh and dried

Chilies, fresh and dried

Nigella seeds (tiny black, slightly bitter seeds; available in specialty markets/mail order businesses)

Sesame seeds

Fenugreek

Beans and Peas

Legumes are used as an extender for kebabs and other meat dishes since they are far less expensive than meat. You will find them fried and salted as a snack or coated with sugar to have with tea.

Chick peas

Kidney Beans

Mung Beans

Split Peas

Lentils

The Onion Family

Practically every savory Afghan dish is made with onions in some form. Most common is something called piaz e surkh kada, which is finely minced onion cooked in plenty of oil until deeply browned, lending a rich and mellow flavor to meats and vegetables. Afghans also use the “juice” of the onion, squeezing out the liquid and distributing it in ground meat for kebabs.

Yellow onions

Red onions

Gandana (similar in appearance to leeks; available in specialty markets.Leeks and/or green onions can be substituted)

Leeks

Scallions

Rice

Afghans are very particular about their rice; it is the centerpiece of nearly every meal. Using the right rice and cooking it properly are considered essentials for a good Afghan cook. We recommend the least processed Basmati rice you are able to find.

Long grain rice

Short grain rice

Except where otherwise noted, all content on this blog is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported license.